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Welcome to the “Death Mission” was the call to “separate the boys from the men” of CTC, as this trek was considered to be the most deadly trek stretching the limits of human mind and body. I swear every bit of these words is nothing but bloody truth. This mortal mission which began at 10.30 p.m on a Saturday night killed our two nights sleep; tore our feet; twisted our ankles; sprained our knees; broke our backs; left few deadly souls to vomit; distorted an undying spirit to faint; ruined the knees of few seasoned trekkers and made one  limp throughout the trek – to the core made 10 trekkers to “hit the wall” at regular intervals; yet, nothing could stop the rock like spirit and the steel like hearts of the 14 iron men of CTC, from marching ahead to complete a dreadful whooping 47 Kms of trek in 26 hours.

The initial night trek to reach the Southern peak at Nagala

The baby steps of this trek started off   with 24 trekkers  pushing themselves from the southern base of Nagalapuram at 150 Mts altitude, at around 10.30 p.m. Initially we had to negotiate with few bushes to find our way and  trek ahead. Navigating successfully into the dense bushes, the initial acclivity  till we reached the first water point at 550 Mts altitude was like a 100 Mts dash on a hilly terrain forcing two souls to “hit the wall” within just 2 hours of the commencement of the trek. Indeed, this was the fitness meter in disguise, which kept ticking to see if they would survive the rest of the marathon. A Few realizing their bad shape, resolved to rest at the first water point, while the remaining 18 trekkers marched ahead to reach the 880 Mts southern peak of Nagalapuram which is the highest point in the Nagalapuram range.

It was around 3 a.m when we reached the Southern peak and most of us were very tired.  The cold breeze with all its quiescence went up our nostrils and rejuvenated our tired souls. . Before I could let the idea of taking a 10 minutes break sink into my mind, I realized the top gunners were already rushing down.

Now, saddled with fully grown grasses, we had difficult time walking.  It blocked us from moving ahead and buckled our knees down. But nothing could stop us. We kept marching ahead towards the water point where the other souls were resting. It was around 5 a.m in the morning when we reached this water source and it was time for us to take a power nap. Almost all of us slept like a log, wherever we found a little space and our minds quickly understood that this one hour was going to be the longest repose we would get for the day.

A day of 24 hours trek – a sweet torment:

I still cannot believe the fact that I was able to trek on this day i.e. 2.10.2011 for 24 hours covering almost 42 kilometers. This day will remain green in my memory for the challenges it posed starting from trekking on the rough stony terrain, climbing to the peaks through dry streams, walking on the ridges, discovering fainting, spewing which was a very rare thing with seasoned trekkers,  the muscle cramps, the hamstring attack, the way my fellow trekkers were left limping , the night trek in Tada Mountain, the never ending trail, the night dip after completing the trek and for  the sound sleep we had on the Tada check post. It stills remains a hangover and has become an unforgettable part of my subconscious mind. I wake up at midnight climbing a peak, only to realize I was dreaming.


The sun rose up in a blink of an eye showing its notorious head, warning us that it was  going to burn us alive. With the will power we carried with us to complete this marathon, we were able to shun it aside as one of the least threats, thereby remaining uninhibited by the pricking heat. After the power nap another 2 souls wanted to retire from the trek since they were not able to trek without proper sleep. Now we were a 16 men army still carrying  the undying will power and spirit with which we started to complete this marathon.

Before I could realize that I had to get ready for the trek the guys in front started running up the mountains after the power nap and now it became difficult for me to catch their speed. One of our seasoned and inspirational trekker was not feeling comfortable to move ahead in that pace and it was a very sad moment for me to see him dropping at that moment. With a heavy heart we had to leave him behind and start running to race with the guys ahead of us.

Now we had to trek up and down in the mountains, negotiating with the big rocks and the sharp stones until we reached the top of the Nagala Mountain, where we had a decent trail to follow. In fact, we were able to move at a faster pace now, owing to the small group size and comfortable terrain. So, we crossed the Nagala top in no time.

At the end of the ridge, we had to climb down to fetch some water for us to continue the trek. We filled our bottles under the scorching sun and resumed our trek. At this point yet another trekker was not able to maintain the pace of the team and he had to exit through the western valley following a stream. Now the squad comprised only as many as 14 trek-mates as against 24 who started off with us.

We had several miles to cover and the sweltering heat took our spirits through dreadful moments. The “Come what may go” attitude was the driving force behind most of us to proceed ahead, with the unaccomplished dream of becoming “iron men” in our minds, we started proceeding unmindful of the pranky weather and the hilly terrain.

The last 17 kilometers – an epic journey which tested our endurance:

Having fetched water from the third water point, dropping down from one of the dry Nagala streams, we started hiking from 350 to 650 Mts to reach the top of the Nagala peaks. Having crossed the initial 30 kilometers came the most dreadful moments which none of the 14 trekkers can dare to forget in their lifetime.

First it was one daring soul affected with loose motion unable to move forward fainted on top of the peak which left us clueless;
Second it was yet another die hard soul who broke his knee and struggled to move forward;
Third, it was the turn of a previous successful marathoner who started vomiting;
Fourth, few more guys started complaining about muscles cramps, hamstring pulls.

Now panic started to spread across the team and the team now got panicky since we were now severed from the rest of the world, with all these tricky things at hand which are difficult to manage even in normalcy. There were even gossips of an early exit, dropping this mission half-way through.

It was then that we resolved to take a 30 minute power nap before we could decide on the next course of action.  All of us slept like dead bodies with no movements on top of the peak and it was only after the 30 minutes break that people started getting back to their senses. Spirits were up again and despite the silence, I could still listen to the CTCians echoing “We will do it, come what may go”.

Indeed, this undying spirit of these 14 trekkers was the notable highlight of this entire marathon. Perseverance  even when I faint, when my knee is broken,  when my ligaments are torn,  when my ankle is dislocated,  when I vomit and drain down; this mind over body game has made  CTCians carve a niche for themselves as the survival masters, the conquerors and the real explorer’s – time came once again to reiterate this firmly and strongly. Hats off to the spirit of these souls who came across all this  turmoil but yet completed the marathon successfully. Now the pride is all yours !

From this peak we firmly started moving towards the top of the Tada Mountain and trekked through some very good grass lands and discovered a very old trail. Following this trail holding torch lights in our hands we almost trekked for two hours with no sign of any water source. We ran out of water and we desperately needed water to energize ourselves and proceed further; but there was no sign of water anywhere and it was a never ending trail all along.

Soon we were lucky enough to hit a dry stream and after a few minutes of bouldering in the dry stream we found water trickle in between the rocks. We drank it like thirsty dogs to quench our thirst; but that was not the end of it – the marathon was still  not over; we had crossed some 40 kilometers and had a long way to go to finish our trek.

The night started falling and this was going to be the second night without sleep; our eyes were drooping involuntarily  and it goes without saying that we were surviving only with the water we had. We trekked untiringly and finally reached a scenic water pool on top of the Tada Mountain; few jumped inside to refresh themselves while the rest did not have the  energy to do so; so they went into deep sleep in the arms of mother nature hugging the rocks.

It was dark and the next challenging move was climbing down to reach the Tada main stream via dense and thorny bushes. As soon as we started, we realized that one of our co-trekkers was missing. Few went in search of him and finally they found that he slept nearby the water pool not realizing that the rest of the team had left to reach the Tada main stream; one can understand how tired he must been for not even realizing what was  going around him. After some tuff negotiations with the dense bushes, the thorny plants and sliding through the dry rocks we reached the main Tada stream and took a dip in one of the pools to clean and refresh ourselves.

With an extreme sense of satisfaction on completing the marathon successfully, which is beyond one’s word and imagination, we started proceeding towards the Tada check post to get into our cab but we were unable to contact the driver; we saw a nice platform at around 12.30 a.m and we slept there till 4.30 a.m not  realizing that it rained in the night only to be woken up by the other trekkers after which we moved to the cab.

At end of the marathon mission this is what I have to tell you “My skin is torn, I am loving it; my muscles are aching, I am enjoying it; my foot is pierced by the sharp stones, I am relishing it; my ligaments are broken, I am cherishing it. For, these are those feelings which will never allow me to forget this deadly marathon and will stay in my heart forever”.

How to get yourself prepared for a Marathon – few survival tips:-

For those who dream to complete Marathon in mountains here are few tips from my experience:

>> Preparation is the key – start preparing at least 3 months in advance. Have regular schedules and be reassured that marathon will not happen in a week’s time. I have witnessed even people who have done multiple DOA’s, DFS and completed marathons going down, because they were not prepared. Only hard work pays.

>> Participate in difficult treks – it is imperative for one to participate in most of the difficult treks to get used to difficult situations and to understand Eastern Ghats and its difficult terrain.

>> Do more of cardio exercise – going to gym and working out with weights will not help you. I have never gone to any gym. I trained myself on  the sands of beach and on the roads, walking and jogging. My office is 9 storeyed  and I used to carry my bag with loads of books daily several times up and down to get used to climbing and develop the needed endurance.

>> Dieting and proper rest plays an important role – don’t smoke and stop drinking at least for one month prior to your marathon. Eat more fruits, vegetables to build your stamina levels. Avoid junk and oily food items which kill your energy level.

During a marathon trek:

>> You can never push the entire stretch of 47 odd Kms in a single go. Therefore, always have short targets in mind and keep yourself motivated to achieve the short targets and pat yourself once you achieve them. Don’t get bowled out having huge targets in mind – be realistic.

>> Just because the strong guys are running in the front don’t push your limits; understand your fitness and speed levels and stick to your speed. The key to finish marathon is sticking to your speed. But don’t be slow and drag the entire team behind, if you are dragging the team you will be sent out in the middle. If you try to run with the fittest you will get exhausted in no time and that will force you to exit; therefore understand and maintain your pace.

>> Keep yourself hydrated throughout the trek. For the sake of calling yourself as an “iron man” not drinking required water, energy drinks and chocolate bars will only dehydrate you and at the end you will hit the wall.

>> Carry a comfortable, small back pack which lies comfortably on your shoulders. Never carry too much weight; it will drain all your energy.

>> Wear comfortable shoes which can breathe, be flexible, have ample shock absorber, which gives you comfort while walking on stones and gives you the grip to walk on rocks. Good shoes will also ensure that you won’t drop out because of blisters.

>> Relax your muscles at regular intervals – your muscles and joints are bound get tired and hard during this strenuous activity; so you should relax your muscles and stretch them at regular intervals to avoid cramps and muscle pulls.

What makes CTC’s marathon special is that  unlike the regular marathon’s, wherein you have people standing with energy drinks to boost one up, here there are only limited possible water points; so one can’t afford to drain one’s  water out. Trekking will not happen on a flat surface knowing each and every turn which we need to take;  we would be trekking with a GPS in hand to guide us. Therefore, if we miss a direction or way, we have to trek and come back again and find our way. If there is an injury there is no easy exit; one has to trek for kilometers to get back to civilization.

After hearing this story unfold before you what else are you still waiting for?? – come let’s train our body, mind and soul to push our limits and complete the next marathon. I am confident you will feel the goodness of “life before marathon and life after marathon” .

Happy trekking!
Durai Murugan

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“If you are born, be born for glory, For those born without it would be better off without birth” – Verse 236 – Thirukural

Drawing inspiration from one of my favorite couplet from Thirukural I was thronging to complete this monsoon survival mission trek ever since I knew about it and to live like a glorious CTC trekker for 3 days. I knew very well that the reserved forest which we were heading to is known for its mysteriousness; for its blood thirsty leeches; for its non-stop deadly rainfall; for its dangerous wild streams; for its venomous snakes; for its dangerous ridges. Indeed, the name “Monsoon survival mission” in one of India’s famous rain forest itself brings in panic and sleepless nights to the trekkers.

Nevertheless, undeterred by any of the consequences 30 daring souls wanted to complete this deadly mission. The mission lived up to its reputation and left us with sleepless-freezing nights; with innumerable leech bites; pouring blood; torn ligaments; muscle cramps; slippery stretches of trails; wild streams. Yet, the well equipped and seasoned trekkers survived the three day cruelty and made a mark for the rest of the world to only read, admire and dream about. Certainly, one of its kind CTC style survival trek.

Day 1: A day walking above the clouds and endless night

As soon as we got down from our bus around 5.00 a.m we started packing our trekking gears and food articles and started our trek in the rain forest around 6.00 a.m.

We could hear the threatening rush of the wild river on the side of the road which warned us that it has been raining here cats and dogs since the start of the monsoon. Undaunted by any of the threats posed before us – we started our hike through one of the ridges in the mountain. The initial test was whosoever not able to climb up the ridge has to return back since they can’t make for the rest of the days. As soon as we climbed we were welcomed by a Malabar pit viper none were afraid of the poisonous viper rather few daring souls started giving poses with the venom injector. I got to understand that these guys are hard metal product and made up of very thick skin. Fortunately all survived the initial test.

We continued our climb from 200 mts altitude into the thick-wet woods to reach to a decent height filled with grasses. There were leeches all around the woods trying to stick to our skin and suck our blood. Withstanding the dis-comfortness of all sort we reached the green carpet which gave us the first lovely sight.

The top of the mountain was covered with green carpet and it was a delight for the eyes to witness. It was a gladiator climax kinda feeling for me walking on those lovely greenish grass covered with mist all around the valley. Indeed this beautiful view was the driving force for me to trek these three days forgetting the blood strains, mosquito bites and strained muscles.

Finishing our breakfast we started our hike to conquer the 1,300 mts grassy peak. The entire ridge was fully clothed with thick grass which made the trail interesting at the same time challenging. From one peak to another we kept on climbing for hours together and we thought we reached the topmost peak and finally realized from the navigator that this is just the 1,100 mts peak and the day’s target was to reach 1,300 mts peak, the group got split into two with the stronger ones pushing ahead and the weaker ones perching on to the back.

The thick grass; the impeccable weather; the mist filled mountains; the distant view of the exquisite water falls; the impeccable valley view; the beauty of the seasoned flowers; the non-stop trek on the ridges all made me feel like I was in a wonder land walking above the clouds in a territory were human civilization is totally banned and had the feeling that we are the only human souls wandering in this lush green forest close to the nature. Indeed, it was rarest of rare experience in one’s life.

After hiking for few more time we reached the peak of the range which was almost 1,300 mts high which offered mind blowing views to the entire valley below. We were able to see the peaks which we had crossed to reach this height the view was simply outstanding and refreshing for the tiring souls. Sitting on top of the peak I almost lost myself in the chill breeze and greenish vegetation.

Slowly with no heart to leave this place we started trekking towards the other low lying peaks through the grassy ridges soon after few hours of trekking we reached yet another spectacular place which offered very interesting view of the green carpet mountains and a cold stream flowing inside it. Few trekkers who went ahead had the rare opportunity to spot few deer’s which had come to have water from the stream. We refreshed ourselves in those rejuvenating water, had our lunch and started moving towards the saddle to climb the other side peaks.  As soon as we entered the saddle we were welcomed by blood sucking leeches which showed no mercy when it came to sucking blood; none were spared from the cruelty of these oral suckers.

Inordinate rain; ferocious waterfall and sleepless night

As we dropped through the saddle into the valley we started encountering numerous streams gushing like a wild horse pushing aside whatever comes on its way and we started trekking along the stream for quite some time until we encountered a water fall which was overflowing out of its capacity because of the heavy down pour. It was a treat to the eyes to witness the waterfall out pouring after taking few pictures we rolled out from this scenic spot. In fact the only waterfall we would have left without taking a dip in our treks and this was due to time constraints.

It was around 3. 00 p.m the sky became dark and we were able to sense that it is going to pour heavily until now we have not witnessed the down pour. Without any turnaround time the rain started pouring heavily and nothing was sufficient to protect or guard us from these rains; some used rain coats, poncho and jerkins but nothing could withstand the heavy down pour. All got drenched in the rain and had no other option except to trek in the rain.

Soon we started to hike the peak as it was raining and it was almost 10 hours since we started our trek and non-stop we have been trekking since 6.00 a.m everyone desperately wanted to take break and rest for the day but we had to cross lot of distance before the end of the day.

The grass now became like a greasy carpet and adding to the slipperiness was the wet mud and the continuous rain. There was no mercy whatsoever from nature and I started realizing what a true survival mission trek means in practicality. Everyone started slipping in the greasy ridges innumerable times and I can’t remember even one person who escaped without slipping. I had numerous falls before I had a hamstring pull when I slipped while trekking on the ridges. The greenish grassy ridges were so appealing that none wanted to step down of it and enter into the leech infected forest. Therefore, we decided to halt in the peak itself amidst the freezing wind and non-stop rain. Luckily, Peter called the trek off for the day after a gruesome day in the rain for almost 4 hours and for 12 hours in the day. Now, the thought of resting traversed into my mind and I desperately wanted a sound sleep.

We had no flat surface on this peak the only interesting thing we had was a stream which was running by our side but none wanted to get a dip into it because already there was no part in the body which was dry to get wet in the stream. No other option was left to us since darkness was approaching us and we decided to spread the tarp down and roll-on with another trap and spend the night.

The cruelty never ended within minutes after opening up my sleeping bag it became wet because of the non-stop rain and I had no other option to sleep underneath the tarps with wet clothes. All along the night I had to sleep with wet clothes with the freezing breeze killing me every second. Indeed the night was very very long and my tent mates literally had no sleep. Kudos! We woke up and realized that we survived a dreadful cold night.

Day 2: merciless rain; denying river and a trek inside rain forest:

As I woke to realize that I am still alive after spending gruel night in the peak the few appealing features of the day was the bright day light; the impeccable view of the green valley; the hum of the birds; the sound of the stream and the smell of the rain forest.  Not being certain if I would survive the second day of the survival mission I packed and started my trek again in the rain.

It poured and poured and never stopped even for the sake of stopping. Yet again we trekked and came to the grass lands and we reached a peak from where we were able to see the Ombattu Gudde peak below us. Peter explained to us in an expert manner about the entire valley. Again we took some group pictures to show cause that Ombatte Gudde was right below our foot.

From this view point we marched downwards to one of the main Kabinhole forest stream; it was a reward to trek through most of those lovely patches of no-man’s land. Soon we reached the main stream which was entirely flooded and never like the one which I witnessed when I trekked during summer.

The river was very ferocious and it neither allowed us to cross it nor permitted us to ferry over it; first time witnessing a ferocious river deep inside a rain forest. We were stuck here and did not know what next to do and there was no sign of the water level decreasing or the rain stopping.

Few guys went out in search for a place to cross the river but they came back in vain since the river was extremely ferocious and will not spare anyone daring to get into it. Peter carried out a check if any of the trekker wanted to drop from the trek at this stage so that they can be identified a safe location while the others can march ahead towards the target.

Out of 30 souls there were 9 souls who wanted to retire from the trek in the 2nd day while the remaining 21 marched ahead inside the forest following the wild river. We trekked through some of the most dense and wild places heavily infected by the leeches and snakes. Every now and then it became common for us to spot venomous snakes. Before the sun fall we decided to camp at the bank of this wild river were we thought it would be good for us to sleep.

We tented to camp and as usual the rain played the spoil sport not allowing us to sleep – a new uninvited pest came and spoiled our sleep and this time it was the mosquitoes which denied us sleep. I could realize how my tent mates and my neighboring tent mates were hitting the mosquitoes throughout the night. Yet, another sleepless night inside the rain forest adding fuel to the survival mission. Day two survived and I am still alive.

Day 3: trekking beside the ferocious river and risk-of-the-life river crossing:

Got up from the wet tarpaulin sheet and realized that I am still kicking and live on the 3rd day. The thought of trekking for the third day now started going deep inside my mind and started causing a kind of tremor before that everything was packed and we started our hiking towards the 9 member gang who were parked in a beautiful grassy land. We pooled in with them and started trekking along the river. The river seemed to have reduced it ferociousness but still it never allowed us to cross it. We had to trek along it for a long time and it finally we decided it will become impossible for us to catch the bus at Gundiya if we don’t catch the jeep track which is in on the other side of the river and march out quickly.

The most dangerous river crossing of my life:

We did not wanted to waste any more time walking in a trailess land which is delaying our progress. Soon Peter jumped into the river and decided to cross the ferocious river and tie a rope other side and ferry across the baggage and non-swimmers. Indeed, he was successful and there were few other daring souls who followed his steps and formed a human chain.

I ventured into the stream and to confess the current underneath the water was deadly and it can easily carry me miles far away and we decided to cross this river by forming a human chain while the strong guys helping in crossing the luggage. We took almost 1.30 hours to cross this river.

Few small guys and non-swimmers were perching on to the rope and without the help of the strong guys they would have been literally swept off by the river. Indeed, I could see the expressions of these guys unfolding before me and the team work involved to save their souls. I am certain that those almost carried away in that wild stream will never-ever forget that moment in their life.  I remembered with beauty there is always danger and there was no exception with this beautiful river which was ready to engulf few souls.
After crossing the river we had a sense of accomplishment that we crossed this river with great team work. With this sense of accomplishment we marched in the jeep track for 5 kms and reached the Gundiya check post.The blood sucking leeches had their share from our body;
The greasy and slippery terrain broke our ligaments and gave us physical challenge;
The deadly and ferocious river never allowed us to cross it for a day;
The venomous vipers showed their ugly head now and then and threatened us from proceeding ahead;
The never ending rain, wet clothes, freezing breeze, mosquitoes and chill nights troubled our nights never allowing us to sleep;
Yet, the survivors are back with a bang from the Monsoon survival mission.
If someone asks me; “What are the days you lived like a solider?” I would quote these days; if there is an uncertainty about my bravery I would quote these days; a misgiving about my surviving skills I would not hesitate to quote these days; the most unforgettable days of my junglie life – I have no hesitation to quote these days. Indeed, I lived a life of an animal when I wandered in the forest; lived like a solider while guarding the rain forest; lived like a snake while slithering in the rain forest; lived like a bird when signing and flying in the dense jungles. These are days to remember; these are the days to cherish and the most unforgettable survival mission in my trekking life.
Happy trekking,
Durai Murugan
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“THE DAY” – my dream day of organizing a trek in CTC came and I was overwhelmed with joy; I was cautious about the responsibility; I was eager to meet the new faces; I was delighted to trek with the new group; I was excited overall about this trek. The day was fresh; the sun was shy; the skies were dark; the breeze was chill; my heart was pumping hard; my eyes was filled with joy and the reason precisely being me organizing my first trek in CTC. A two days hike to kodai through Kumbakarai waterfalls lying at an altitude on 400 mts above sea level to Kodaikanal at an altitude of 2,200 mts sea level.

Being sent the invite to 12,000 + group I received an overwhelming response of 75 registrations just in 20 hours time. Then came the difficult time of scrutinizing the entries – I had to take some difficult calls to shortlist the participants. However, all said and done we were 20 trekkers 19 guys and 1 daring gal headed for this Kodai two day adventure.

Day 1 – A day of sun, steep climb, rain and cold night – Unforgettable volley

We reached Kumbakarai waterfalls and had a splashing morning enjoying the waterfalls by diving and sliding in the chill water pool. The sun was bright and it was dry, we silently slipped through the Kodai jungles and started our hike. Initially we trekked for 2 kms in a flat trail before we reached the base of the Kodai Mountains from where there was no flat walk.

First day’s target was to hit a less known hamlet called “Vellagavi” which can only be reached through legs trekking deep inside forest located at an altitude of 1,300 mts. All the 20 brave CTCians were geared up to reach Kodai through their legs carrying their bag packs. The steep climb, the sweating body, the heavy back pack all became like feather flying in the air witnessing the views of the impeccable kodai landscapes.

There was no mercy and we had to literally climb up the hill and most of the parts it was steep climbs. Until afternoon it was sunny and we had to walk in the sun and after reaching an altitude of 1,000 mts we started trekking inside interior parts of kodai through the dense valley which provided us shelter and chill breeze. As we started climbing up we started feeling the change in the weather and the chillness in the breeze.

The forest was full of flowers and fresh leaves and it was a life time delight to walk through beside those lovely flowers and thick woods. What made the trek more special was the sound of the humming birds and whisper of robin throughout the route. We felt almost part and parcel of the mountain and sensed that those birds were inviting us into their territory. Wish I also had a nest in that beautiful forest to fly and sing along with those lovely birds.

We reached almost 1,200 mts altitude and now we were able to appreciate the spectacular valley very well and the also the Vaigai dam below it was a very interesting scenery to portray it in one’s mind and flash it whenever one thinks of Kodai.

Visit to Vellagavi Village

Vellagavi a small hamlet in the Kodai mountain range till date can only be reached through legs. The people there are very friendly and at the same time very sensitive and they cherish their secludedness. It is located on the tip of a hill and is more than 450 years old much older than Kodai which would be some 300 years old. The locals consider their homeland very sacred and restrict themselves and others from wearing foot wears inside their village. We respecting their bye-laws roamed the small hamlet without any footwear and to admit seriously it was pleasant to feel the chill soil on my foot.

CTC Spiker’s vs. Vellagavi Warrior’s Volley clash

Having reached Vellagavi in the evening we had to spend the evening memorable – then what next to do – I had brought a volley ball with me since I knew that villagers gather every day in the evening to play volley ball which is the only sport played in that hamlet. Now it was time for a clash between the CTC spikers’ and Vellagavi warriors.

Being represented my state 5 times and played in various arenas’ I should confess that I have never played volley ball in such a beautiful arena. The volley ball court was located exactly on the tip of the mountain with three sides covered with mind blowing views of Kodai Mountains and the other side covered with kodai valley and the jaw dropping view of vaigai dam. I felt awesomely delighted playing my favorite game in such a location. I can equally understand from the expression of my co-trekkers how happy they were to play a game of volley ball in such a superb location. Although the Vellagavi warriors were a well composed and powerful team we did give them a tuff fight before surrendering the game.

The joy and happiness playing volley ball are beyond expressions and I am confident that my co-trekkers had similar feeling.

After the game of play it started drizzling and we had to settle down for the day and cook our dinner. Soon we prepared and had Sambar rice and soup although a rare diet in CTC treks, the thought of rain and the cold night made us to quickly unfold our tarpaulin sheets and settle underneath it. The night was cold and it was slightly drizzling throughout yet underneath the tarpaulins rolling ourselves into our sleeping bags we enjoyed the night. Another CTC style night under the tarpaulin and in open atmosphere.

Day 2 – Breathing the chill breeze and hitting the Kodai – celebrating friendship day

As planned we dropped our luggage in the village and went for trek inside some of the interior parts of that range the early morning trek through the forest was indeed a god sent opportunity for one and all to enjoy the nature at its best.

We trekked almost in between two range of mountains were we witnessed the fog slowly moving towards us as if it’s going to engulf us in no time. It was a spectacular scene watching the white gas moving inside the mountain and engulfing us.

Did not want to miss such a location and decided to pull out the few colour powder packets I had in my pocket and soon all our faces were filled with different colours. Indeed we were privileged to have celebrated it in such a place with some thick friends and other newly found one day old friends. Indeed that’s what makes CTC treks more special – one gets to make deep friendship with unknown people in very short period of time. While coming back we took bath in one of the wells in the village farm the bath in the ice cold water was a pleasure to bathe.

Soon we went and prepared CTC’s famous and regular menu Maggi and what made the breakfast special is the corn flakes along with milk a rarity in treks. After finishing our breakfast we started our hike towards Kodai. It was full of mist and the visibility level was very poor nevertheless we marched towards the mission target of making to Kodai by legs. It was steep climb most of the time and as climbed it drizzled and made the trek more interesting.

We had to wait in some of the view points for the mist to move so that we can have better view of the valley and the landscapes. There were places were a mere slip will directly take us down some 1,000 mts down but yet the views were brilliant.

After steep trek though the jungles of Kodai we reached the famous dolphin nose view point. Although it was misty still we enjoyed the pleasant weather and spent some time before we made to kodai climbing the Mountain.

The sense of achievement of making to Kodai through legs was palpably visible on the face of the participants and two days trek with new found friend’s added life to the trek.

The chill breeze, the dense forest, the thick woods, the smell of the wet soil, the misty weather, the drizzles, the steep climb, the mind blowing view points, the beautiful landscapes, the sound of birds, the lovely flowers all along, the heart touching people and the life time volley ball match. Life is wonderful

Happy trekking.
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Personally, I have trekked several times deep inside reserved forests and always there has been a discussion over the concept of “reserved forest”; why permission to enter inside them is required; what are the acts which are permitted and prohibited inside reserved forest.

An endeavor has been made here to understand

(a) the concept of “reserved forest” as per the strict provisions of law

(b) acts which are prohibited inside reserved forests

(c) what are the  consequences of committing any of the  acts  prohibited under the forest laws.

The term “Reserved forest” now-a-days has been interchangeably used from common man to super learned professional in various context but this term is a pure creature of Indian law and it means the forest declared to be reserved by the concerned State Government by specifying the limits of the reserved forest. Therefore, each state government has been vested with powers under their respective State Forest Act to declare a certain portion of land as reserved forest in order to protect and preserve the biologically diversity of that place.

To understand the concept of “reserved forest” better and how it is done by the Tamil Nadu State Government please visit this link http://www.tn.gov.in/stationeryprinting/gazette/2010/9-II-2.pdf. The Tamil Nadu State government has declared Nanmangalam Reserve Forest located at Medavakkam between Velachery and Tambaram in Chennai this is so declared to protect the wide variety of birds which hasvisit and made it has place of habitat. Therefore, there could be a reserved forest even inside a metropolitan city and needless it should be in no man’s land.

To get authentic information about the list of reserved forests one can file a right to information application with the concerned “Public Information Officer”, Forest department of the respective state government and obtain necessary details.

Acts which are prohibited in reserved forests:

Any person who

1.   Makes any fresh clearing of the forest land; or

2.   Sets fire to a reserved forest, kindles any fire, or leaves any fire burning, in such manner as to endanger such a forest;

3.   Trespasses or pastures cattle or permits cattle to trespass;

4.   Causes any damage by negligence in felling any tree or cutting or dragging any timber;

5.   fells, girdles, lops, or bums any tree or strips off the bark or leaves from, or otherwise damages, the same;

6.   Quarries stone, bums lime or charcoal, or collects, subjects to any manufacturing process, or removes, any forest-produce;

7.   Clears or breaks up any land for cultivation or any other purpose;

8.   Hunts, shoots, fishes, poisons water or sets traps or snares.

The above mentioned acts are prohibited inside any “reserved forest” under the Indian laws.

Punishment

Any person you is caught doing any of the prohibited activities mentioned above shall be punishable with imprisonment for a term which may extend to six months or with fine which may extend to five hundred rupees, or with both, in addition to such compensation for damage done to the forest as the Court may direct to be paid.

Hope it give you a basic idea of reserve forest.

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Teethed with polluters pay and precautionary principles and with a vision of sustainable development the National green tribunal ventures into its maiden action.

The National Green Tribunal Act has been enacted with an intention of effective and expeditious disposal of cases relating to environmental protection including enforcement of any legal right relating to environment and giving relief and compensation to persons and property.

In brief the Act provides relief when an injury is caused by a person to the environment. Any person can approach the National Green Tribunal seeking appropriate reliefs from the pollutant and seek suitable remedy.

The Act empowers the Green Tribunal to award compensation and unlike other environmental protection Acts, this Act bestows ample power on the Green Tribunal if its order are not complied with; the penalty may be either three years prison or upto ten crores penalty and for companies it may extend upto twenty five crores.

In the backdrop of this commendable legislation which was enacted by our parliament after Australia and New Zealand will the message “dare to pollute” be spread to the masses and the pollutants?

Text of the Act is available here http://moef.nic.in/downloads/public-information/NGT-fin.pdf

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An Exploratory Trek into the Nagari hills

The name and style of this celebrated club’s logo is “Explore the unexplored” and here was the opportunity to do precisely what the insignia carried for itself. After thorough scrutiny and filtering of the registrations the commander chose his 16 strong soldiers who can conquer new places; achieve great heights; explore the hidden treasures; face the demanding conditions; live without water; survive among wasps; get soaked in the rains like frogs and fried in the sun like dry fish yet live up to the Commander’s words “Dare to create your own path rather than follow existing trails”.


This mission exactly did what it was formulated for. It created a new trial for other trekkers to follow; it discovered the beautiful bluish/greenish gorge pools; it discovered those majestic water falls; it discovered those breath-taking view points; it discovered those impeccable valleys hidden deep inside the Nagari range of mountains lying on the Eastern Ghats. Silencing the myth that Nagari is a dry and hot place with less vegetation. Nagari showed its true colour’s to its explorers and invited us with pleasant weather; adorable greenery and full of water.

Day 1: Exploring the deep pools, waterfalls and view points:

The trek initially started along an existing trial which lead to the famous Lord Shiva temple located inside the scenic Nagari Mountains which is surrounded by beautiful waterfalls and lovely rock formations. We reached the Nagari waterfall jumped inside the chilling pool and took a dip to refresh ourselves.

After having our breakfast in this place we started our trek towards another man made trial till we reached our start of our exploration. We deviated towards a stream and luckily there was enough water which gave us the comfortness that we need not carry much water. The stream clearly indicated us that the sizes of boulders are going to increase in size. Few of the explorers were able to guess that there could be possible water fall or pool if we follow this stream.

After almost an hour following the stream we discovered the first gorge pool which was deep enough for swimming and diving. Few of the explorers followed the stream while few climbed the rocky mountain to trek parallelly along the stream.

For the explorers who were trekking along the stream came the first obstacle in the form of Dead End pool which stopped them from proceeding further along the stream. Soon the explorers climbed up the rocky mountain and trekked parallelly to the stream and realizing that this will lead them to nowhere they slipped through the gorge of the mountain towards the stream to soon discover the “Bath Tub Pool” of Nagari.

The spectacular Bath Tub Pool of Nagari which is one of the best discoveries of the mission is a semi-circular pool with chill waterfall filling it up and is quite deep enough for dives and floating around.

With the joy and happiness of discovering the first pool we marched ahead to hike the 900 metres plus south east peak of Nagari. Before we could reach the top of the south east peak we discovered the two “Nagari step falls” which was spectacular in itself. We took bath and headed towards our target the south east Nagari peak.

The hike towards the peak was very challenging since it was very steep and we had to literally climb in 60 degree angle for 200 meters. The explorers were ready and prepared to face any challenges. When passion ignites thorns become flowers, bushes become bed, steepness becomes cake walk and nothing can stop an explorer from his passion towards discovery taking the path which no one has dared to take. We reached the peak when sun was slowly winding up for the day.

The sun rays penetrated through the thick clouds and lighted the entire Nagari valley. I swear one could spend the rest of the life watching those glorious views. I guess I got the answer for the long pending question which was lingering in my mind, “why the hell am I trekking for?” All the questions about “why I trek” was silenced forever in my mind watching those spectacular views unfolding before me. My heart was filled with peace and tranquility. Thanks to nature at its best.

Soon we started our search for a camp site to rest for the day. We trekked through the hills and reached a scenic valley which was covered by three sides from mountains, full grown 8 feet high grasses, lovely stream running on the side of the camp site, the smell of the thick woods, the chillness in the breeze and dark clouds all took us to heavenly delight.

As soon as we completed our dinner the clouds opened up and it started pouring cats and dogs. We had only two mid size tarpaulins with us and we rolled over us to protect ourselves from the rain. Few daring souls undeterred by the heavy down pour enjoyed every drop of water which fell on them. Those who rolled themselves inside the tarpaulin sheets were enjoying an altogether different experience of the rains hitting them hard still somehow guarding themselves from the rains. The commander started building his tarpaulin castle to protect all from the rain. The tarpaulin castle was indeed a luxury for anyone who loved outdoor.

A night which can never be forgotten for its thunder storms, lightning, chill breeze. Indeed, if I had to refresh my memory and recollect when I am old this day would probably hit right on the top of the list. A night slept in the pouring rain under the tarpaulin on top of the hill is a not everyone’s opportunity.

Day 2: The joy of discovering the tallest waterfall in Nagari mountains:

We all woke up early morning after witnessing the heavy shower unfolding the previous night. The entire valley was calm and we could sense the feeling of calmness with the smell of the soil taking us to great heights. We prepared for the day’s target of climbing the hills and descending down through the steep gorge below.

Initially we followed the stream till we hit the Water rock. Water rock is a huge mass of rock which gets its name for the water which trickles from that huge mass of rock throughout the year. God alone knows how could water get inside that huge mass of rock and could provide water throughout the year.

From the water rock we marched towards the peak of the Nagari following a stream until we took a deviation to reach the 950 meters peak. The peak provided us wonderful views of the green valley below.

From the top of the peak was the most demanding task of the entire mission to trek down towards the valley below. The trial we took was as steep as 90 degrees and most of us were sliding instead of walking. The loose sand did not show any mercy and just took us and dashed with the boulders making harming our foot.

Yet another feather on our cap we found the “Vipin 360 degree pool” which is a lovely gorge pool very deep enough and invites one to dive from good height. Almost all dipped inside the pool, enjoyed the chillness in the water, hanging on to the roots. Every discovery gave us a sense of achievement and brought us happiness indeed, the mission was meant for exploration.

The most remarkable moment came when we discovered a view point and the tallest waterfall in Nagari Mountains. The view from this point was mind blowing with the green carpet valley below, the beautiful rock formations on both the sides and a waterfall almost 150 meters dipping below. Few of us went to cliff and enjoyed the beauty waterfall flowing from the top to its base. Certainly, the proudest moment for the mission the discovery of the Nagari water fall.

Slowly with no heart to leave that place we slipped through the steep valley cutting the thorny bushes and braving the wasps and red ants. Soon we reached the base of the water fall which was a spectacular place to camp. Waterfall falling on one side and the green valley below that place enjoying the charmness and beauty of that place we had our lunch and started trekking towards the nearby village to complete our trek.

As soon as we trekked down the mountain we found a never ending walk path which was in between mountains. We enjoyed walking along that foot path to reach the mango farm followed by the village pool were we took bath and then we hit the village with a sense of satisfaction and achievement. Undeniably, a mission worth to be termed as “exploratory mission” discovering wonderful places hidden deep inside.

This was my second exploratory mission with the Commander, the joy of exploration and happiness of taking a trial never taken before and the thrill of reaching a place where humans dare to go can never be expressed in words and that is what is called as “explore the unexplored” feeling.

Happy trekking,

Durai Murugan

 

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Yercaud popularly known as poor man’s Ooty is a delight in the Eastern Ghats and is a blessing for people residing in and around Salem and certainly a must visit place for people who throng for hill stations.

My under graduation classmate’s marriage reception was scheduled on 29.05.2011 (Sunday). Did not want to waste the weekend just in attending the reception therefore, wanted to hit Yercaud and from there to Kalakurichi were I need to attend the reception.

We reached Salem and started our onward journey towards Yercaud early morning cutting across those scenic 20 hair pin bends which make one to realize the adrenaline pumping hard. The journey towards Yercaud offers glorious views of the landscapes, the Salem city and the valley below the Shevaroy hills.

The major attraction in Yercaud is the lake which offers boating. The previous day the lake hosted the prestigious boat competition making the viewers spell bound.

Flower Show

It was sheer coincidence that we happened to hit Yercaud on the final day of Yercaud flower show. The early morning chill breeze and the gorgeous mountain would have never realized that it is going to witness an unprecedented crowd that evening. We decided to visit as much places possible through legs.

I would always recommend walking along Yercaud to visit this lovely place instead of travelling by a self propelled machine. You can feel the chill breeze flowing through your nozzles and refreshing your mind and body.

The Tamil Nadu Horticulture department had arranged for the Flower show which attracted huge number of people mostly from nearby places except for a minuscule who came from far-flung places. The garden’s in Yercaud wear sporting colourful and eye catching flowers. Went around these beautiful gardens and took pictures getting lost in its beauty.

View points

Anybody visiting Yercaud should never miss the various identified view points from where one can see the valley below and the nearby towns. Ladies seat, Gents seat, Arthur seat, Pagoda point, Retreat point and Tipperary View Point. All these viewpoints present spick and span view for eyes.

Kiliyur Falls

Killiyur falls which is located 3.5 kms from the Yercaud Lake requires a decent climb up and down and a must watch spot for eco-lovers; the spine chilling water flows directly from the lake and is one of the best spots which is less crowded and one can visit this place to enjoy solitude and peace. Although the initial trial towards the falls is very steep, needless for anyone to panic as it is easy to hit this waterfalls.

At last after spending our day in this lovely place we rushed to make on time to the reception at Kalakurchi. Although, literally there was no one at the marriage hall except for the bride and bridegroom’s family members and relatives. My friend was very happy witnessing us to come all the way to wish him good luck towards the joint step in his personal life.

Yercaud certainly a pristine glory of Eastern Ghats

 

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Bored with office work and tired with the blazing sun in Chennai. I decided to escape from the concrete jungle and trek in the Western Ghats to enjoy the pleasant weather, chill nights, thick vegetation, beautiful landscapes, freezing water and to reach Kodaikanal through foot which I was dreaming to complete for a long time.

Didn’t want to trek alone, therefore, invited couple of my friends who were interested in trekking and were also equally bored with city life. Sent an invitation cautioning the daring souls to get lost into the Western Ghats; enjoy its beauty; fall in love with the charming weather; getting wet in the rains and shiver in chillness almost all of whom I invited were equally interested to join me in this expedition.


The trek starts from Kumbakarai at 400 mts altitude to Kodai at an altitude of 2,200 mts above sea level. The plan is to start hiking early Saturday morning (14.05.2011) and hit Vellagavi village at 1,300 mts altitude and from there proceed on Sunday (15.05.2011) towards Vattakanal / Dolphin nose and from there to Kodaikanal at 2,200 mts altitude. If planned for one day this is a hard core trek and if spread across two days it is a moderate trek.

A word about this trail

This trail has got historic significance since this was the walking track up to Kodaikanal in the late 18th and early 19th centuries used by the westerners before the present roads came to usage. So this is a privileged and prestigious route to trek. The distance is around 20 kms in rough terrain. Except for the Vellagavi villagers hardly any other people use this trail to reach Kodaikanal. There are not much deviation points and with the help of a compass and Google map and cross referencing both one can easily navigate this trail.

Day 1 – Astounding climb and camping in a hamlet

The trek started from Kumbakarai falls which is very popular local tourist spot. The entire place was crowded with localities since it was a weekend, we also mingled with them and took bath in the water falls and the sliding pool which is located 200 mts from the main falls. Chill water flowing from Kodaikanal valley gave us the refreshment for the day.

The sliding pool and the water in the gorge rejuvenates’ once body, mind and soul and acts as a perfect booster. Cleaning our body and freshening up our spirits we started our trek towards Vanathi Oodai (washer man stream). After 30 minutes of trek we reached Vanathi Oodai and decided to rest and have our lunch here. After spending few hours in the water and having our lunch we again started our trek.

From Vanathi Oodai the inclination starts gradually and there is no flat walk till Vellagavi except for few places. The trail is very clear and there are no much deviation points except for few over grown bushes here and there. As you start climbing you will feel the change in the weather, probably, that makes Kodaikanal a special destination to trek.

The views on the way towards Kodai is amazing at times you will be walking on the side of the mountain which will create fear and at the same time thrilling as if you are going to slip down any moment into the valley. One can easily see the Vagai dam while trekking towards Vellagavi. The tall trees, chill breeze, beautiful landscapes, the grasslands and the wonderful camaraderie made the trek more special to me.

Vellagavi a very peaceful and serene hamlet in the Kodaikanal Mountains surprised us with unexpected hospitality by its residents. Vellagavi is located at 1,300 mts altitude. Nature has gifted this hamlet with very pleasant weather, the villagers consider their village as holly place and restrict everyone from wearing footwear inside their village.

After reaching Vellagavi we went for a walk inside the village and spoke with many villagers, played with the kids and exchanged some worthy conversations with those innocent people, who love their place and cherish their secludedness. I suggest anyone who wants to relax and stay away from the stressful city life to visit and stay in this lovely place for few days and I am sure you will come back as a rejuvenated soul forgetting all your stress.

As planned we halted the night in Vellagavi and prepared and had our food. The villagers offered us a house to stay but we politely refused to stay since we wanted to sleep outdoor and we choose the primary school veranda and slept under the sky watching the glittering stars twinkling around. The mercury dipped as the night fall and we enjoyed the chillness and the outdoor squeezing ourselves into sleeping bags.

Day 2 – Breath taking views and hardcore hiking

The previous day another friend of mine called me to inform that he is going to join us in Vellagavi so I had to get up very early in the morning and had to catch him in Vanathi Oodai. I started running from Vellagavi downhill and met my friend few kilometers away from Vanathi Oodai and from there we both started hiking at a very high speed since we had to reach Vellagavi and from there to Kodai. The other group was preparing maggi for their breakfast and gearing up to trek the remaining distance to hit Kodaikanal. After few hours of non-stop hard core hiking we met the other group which was heading to Kodai from Vellagavi. We had our breakfast at Vellagavi and started trekking towards Kodai.

The hike towards Kodaikanal from Vellagavi is astounding and never fails to offer great views. There are no deviation points and one can blindly follow the trail, I enjoyed the hike especially of the refreshing climate and the brilliant views of the valley. The entire valley was covered with thick green blanket and the flowers blossoming throughout the valley, we took regular breaks to enjoy the hike and to enjoy the unpolluted, human less environment.

After reaching an altitude of 2,000 metres we reached the “Echo rock point” which offered us some beautiful view of the valley below and also the famous dolphin nose which offered us splendid view since there was very less mist we were lucky enough to enjoy the breath taking views amidst chill weather.

Few more kilometers of hike we reached Vattakanal and from there we reached the Pambar falls, few of us took bath in that freezing cold water as we completed our trek successfully, although we were tired physically, mentally we were extremely fresh and achieving the target safely everyone felt extremely delighted that they made to kodai through their legs, this sense of achievement and feeling of goodness was palpably visible in everyone’s face.

To sum up, this trek will be cherished by the participants for the adventure, fun, camaraderie it offered to us. I am sure that this trek ignited the passion for trekking among few who were new to treks and joined this Kodai mission.

Happy trekking,

Durai Murugan

 

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A trek into Venkateswara Reserved Forest

When the whole world was counting down to welcome the New Year (2011) at their home, their cities and other known civilizations. A bunch of 21 CTCians vanished inside their second home the mighty “Venkateswara Reserved Forest” to welcome the year ahead in a style well known to them and marked an historical event for the rest of the world to only read and dream about.

The group consisting of an uneven mix of 20 guys and 1 gal coming from Chennai, Bangalore and Hyderabad met in Tirupathi on 31st December early morning and headed to Papavinasam Dam to start their three days trek.

Day 1 – Party with the wild beast

It was this day of the life that the entire group will never ever dare to forget.


Encountering a wild sloth bear face to face is not an easy opportunity which a trekker gets in his life time that too in a short range of 5 feet. It requires the courage of a lion, the strength of a bison and the patience of a tortoise to encounter a wild beast face to face. What followed after the encounter was fear and panic spreading across the group although shunned down by the brave souls in no time.

The New Year celebrations was spear headed by cooking, singing and adventurous team hitting in full swing the campsite and rocking the mountains with their energy and their goodies. The last day of the year was indeed a special day for the entire group to cherish and keep it close to their hearts.

Day 2 – the “NEW YEAR DAY”

Can you imagine taking bathe on a New Year morning in a water fall which is unparallel in its beauty and splendid in its freshness?

One can’t imagine taking his eyes out of the Angel falls for its impeccable beauty and crystal clear water. The swim inside the pool is something I would term it is as “heaven on earth”.

What followed after the fresh bath in the Angel falls was trek, trek and trek cutting across the thick jungles and wild streams. Ferrying across the wild stream was a perfect instance of man’s survival with his sense of togetherness and carrying for each other.

All the sleeping mats were roped in to make a perfect floater and to transport the luggage from one end of the stream to another end. It was a perfect moment of togetherness for the entire group.

The tiring trek was rewarded by our beautiful V 6 pool were we had our lunch. V 6 pool is a trekker’s delight and a perfect refreshing point for tiring souls. We had some amazing dives and swim in the pool and got completely drenched with its beauty and to confess this is the best place I have had my lunch so far in life.

After another few hours trek inside the thick forest we reached one the most beautiful camp sites in the entire venkateswara forest the “Betel leaf” falls. The tiring souls spent no time to take a dip in the wonderful falls which refreshed the entire soul and body.

The night-stay on a no-moon day with twinkling Stars on top of your head was a god sent opportunity to enjoy ‘Mother Nature’. Marvelous, fantastic can be shunned down as under statements. The chill weather refreshed the entire body and gave us a sound sleep.

Day 3 – the tiresome day
With heavy deadline of 30 kms trek in mind the final day was a pleasure in pain. We started to trek early morning and crossed through wonderful rock formations and thick jungles.

We passed through some beautiful streams. The ferrying in the wild stream was indeed the highlight of the 3rd day trek. The vertical climb up and down a huge mountain made the souls to completely exhaust. However, it could never withstand the will-power of the surviving souls.

Even after the sunset we were stranded inside the forest and had solid 12 kms to trek to hit the closet village. All the 21 survivors started moving as a single unit at a steady phase ignoring the rain, the muddy soil and had to trek across the waters of the village dam.

No Food, No Water, No Rest and all that was on our mind was to hit the nearest village and to complete our trek. At 2 ‘o’ clock in the night we hit the nearby village – welcomed by the barking dogs of the village.

After missing our transportation to our respective places came the most remarkable part when we had to board a goods lorry and travel to Chennai. In a perfect CTC style we completed our NEW YEAR TREK and reached Chennai at 6.30 a.m.

 

Happy Trekking,

Durai Murugan

 

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